It follows the fabled designer through the 12 weeks in which he put together his 2024 spring show. But the drama got left out of the mix.
Plus IconOwen Gleiberman
Chief Film Critic
@OwenGleiberman See All
Courtesy of A24 I love a good fashion documentary, and there’s no mystery as to why the best ones, like “Unzipped” (1995) or “Valentino: The Last Emperor” (2008), tend to be organized around a single fashion season and a fabled designer’s creation of an indelible collection. (Remember how Isaac Mizrahi based his 1994 collection in “Unzipped” on a random TV viewing of the 1922 silent Eskimo documentary “Nanook of the North”? How could one forget?) That countdown structure allows us to see the creative process in bloom, and to experience all the backstage politics and drama of an approaching runway show. It’s a structure that also worked for the fashion-media documentary “The September Issue” (2009), and it’s been utilized in countless music docs as well. The formative film of the genre is probably Jean-Luc Godard’s “One Plus One” (1968), which documented the Rolling Stones recording “Sympathy for the Devil” (in between Godardian riffs on topics like Black revolution), a song that underwent so many changes in the studio that the result was one of the two or three most haunting movies about the creative process ever made.
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